Profiles and Ground plates

Identify the location for the site of your project and setup a dumpy at a center point to obtain the site level.  By using building profiles and setup the better board then putting up the string line at the better board and make sure the string lines are Parallels and Diagonals .   There are example of how to set up the building profiles.


Building Profiles

1.	Peg the four outside corners: Determine the location of the building in relation to other buildings and boundaries , and place pegs in the ground marking the four corners of the building. Check to see if the pegs are square and form an exact rectangle. This can be done by making sure that: 1). Line AA-CC and line BB-DD are parallel. Line AA-BB and line CC-DD are parallel.(as shown in the drawing below) 2). The distance between peg AA and peg BB is the same as the distance between peg CC and peg DD. 3). The distance between peg AA and peg CC is the same as the distance between peg BB and peg DD. 4). The distance between peg AA and peg DD (the diagonals) is the same as the distance between peg BB and peg CC.
2.	The stakes should be at least 500mm out from the building line to allow room to dig the corner footing holes.  Make a level mark on all twelve stakes beginning approx 150mm above ground level, at the corner where the ground is the highest . Keeping the batter boards close to the ground saves the need for bracing. The height is only a reference height, so it does not really matter if the marks are slightly higher or lower, as long as they are all level.
3.	Fixing the batter boards to the stakes: Once a level line has been established and marked on all twelve stakes, proceed nailing batter boards to the stakes, so that the top of the batter board is flush with the level line marked on the stakes. The batter boards can be any sizes, and of boxing grade or low grade stock. Depending upon how far the profiles are set back from the building line.
4.	Put up the string line: Run a taut string line from batter board to batter board, passing directly over the pegs. Fix to each batter board between 2 nails, which will act as guide nails.
5.	Parallels and Diagonals: The following exercise is the same as in STEP 1. where the pegs on the ground were checked to ensure they were parallel and square. This time, the string line directly above the pegs needs to be checked so that it is also parallel and square. Check that the distance between the string line at point AA and BB and the distance between DD and CC are equal. If not, make any necessary adjustments by moving the string line in or out along the batter board and adjust the guide nails accordingly. The distance between AA and CC and the distance between BB and DD, also need to be equal. Make any necessary adjustments Once the perimeters are parallel, the diagonals need to be measured to ensure that the building line is square. Do this by measuring the distance between AA and DD and the distance between BB and CC (the diagonals). Make any necessary adjustments to ensure the diagonals are equal and if adjustments are required, re-check the parallels again, since altering the diagonals will also change the parallels. When the building lines are parallel and the diagonals are equal, the building line is then square. You now have a level, square building line to work from.

How to use Dupmy Level 21/03/2011

A dumpy level, builder's auto level, leveling instrument, or automatic level is an optical instrument used in surveying and building to transfer, measure, or set horizontal levels.
The level instrument is set up on a tripod and, depending on the type, either roughly or accurately set to a leveled condition using footscrews (levelling screws). The operator looks through the eyepiece of the telescope while an assistant holds a tape measure or graduated staff vertical at the point under measurement. The instrument and staff are used to gather and/or transfer elevations (levels) during site surveys or building construction. Measurement generally starts from a benchmark with known height determined by a previous survey, or an arbitrary point with an assumed height.
A dumpy level is an older-style instrument that requires skilled use to set accurately. The instrument requires to be set level  in each quadrant, to ensure it is accurate through a full 360° traverse. Dumpy levels will have a bubble level ensuring an accurate level.
A variation on the dumpy and one that was often used by surveyors, where greater accuracy and error checking was required, is a tilting level. This instrument allows the telescope to be effectively flipped through 180°, without rotating the head. The telescope is hinged to one side of the instrument's axis; flipping it involves lifting to the other side of the central axis thereby inverting the telescope . This action effectively cancels out any errors introduced by poor setup procedure or errors in the instrument's adjustment. As an example, the identical effect can be had with a standard builder's level by rotating it through 180° and comparing the difference between spirit level bubble positions.

How to Build a BBQ Table

Steps

1. 1
   Obtain a durable lumber suitable for the project. The project in the photos uses pressure treated southern yellow pine, recycled from an old deck. Choosing premium lumber, or even a synthetic material made from recycled plastics will afford a higher quality finished project.
   
   
   • 14 - 2x6 72 inches (183 cm) long.
   • 5 - 2X4 30 inches (76,2 cm) long.
   • 3 lbs. 12d (3 1/2 inch) hot dipped galvanized nails. (Substitute 3 1/2 inch exterior (deck) screws for greater strength)
2. 2
   Cut:
   
   
   • Cut 12 2X6 boards 72 inches (183 cm) long. 6 til bordplate. 2 til seat rails. 4 til sitteplate.
   • Cut 3 2X4 boards, 30 inches (76,2 cm) from long point to long point, with 45 degree angles on each end.
   • Cut 4 2X6 boards 35 inches (88,9 cm) long from long point to short point, with a 25 degree angle on each end. Til bein.
   • Note that you will also have to cut the diagonal bracing underneath the table top, but it is best to scribe this board to fit after the rest of the top is fastened together.
   the following boards, using a rafter or speed square to scribe the correct angles
3. 3
   

   Lumber arranged on the sawhorses, best side down.
   Lay out the top boards on sawhorses, setting them so the best side (least knots, cracks, etc) is down, since this will be the bottom of the table top.
4. 4
   

   Table top nailers (rails), positioned and tacked in place.
   Nail, spaced 4 inches (10 cm) from either end and the third centered between the ends the 2X4 boards with the 45 degree angle cuts to the bottom of the table top. Toenail these to hold them in position until the table is flipped over, when you can finish nailing the top.
5. 5
   

   Legs, nailed into position.
   Position the 35 inch (88,9 cm) 2X6s so they are centered over the short point of the table top end rails as shown in the photo, and nail them securely to the rails.
6. 6
   

   Measuring up, or down from the top. This height can vary, depending on how tall the table users will be.
   Measure up (down from the top when the table is flipped) 17 inches (43,2 cm). Drive a nail into the leg at this mark, half way to the head. This will support the seat rails, which you will install next.
7. 7
   Center the seat rails (also 2X6 72 inches - 183 cm - long), centered between the inverted table legs, resting on the nails you have driven in at 17 inches. Nail these through into the legs.
8. 8
   

   The diagonal 2X4 brace nailed into position.
   Mark the centers of both the table top middle rail and the seat rails. Scribe a 2X4 to fit diagonally between these marks, as shown in the photo. Cut these, and nail them securely into place.
9. 9
   

   Table set right side up before installing seat boards.
   Invert your table so it is now standing on its legs. Lay your seat boards (again, 2X6s, 72 inches - 183 cm - long, on the seat rails that should be sticking out from beneath the table on each side. You will want to try them out for size, shifting them in or out along the rail until they are comfortable for you. When you have these rails in a desirable position, mark the location of the outer seat board, remove them, and saw a 45 degree angle on the rail so none of it will protrude from beneath the seats.
10. 10
    

    Seat support (rail) with angle cut.
    Reposition the seat boards and nail them off. Drive nails through the table top boards into their rails to finish securing them.
11. 11
    

    Cutting the table top corners on a 45 degree angle will prevent painful bumps.
    Cut the corners of the table top at a 45 degree angle about 2 inches (5 cm) from the corners so they are rounded, to make it less likely anyone will bump into them.
12. 12
    Sand and finish the table as you want. You can use a silicone waterproofing sealer, an exterior polyurethane (many so-called polyurethane products actually degrade in ultraviolet light), or a semitransparent exterior wood stain for this purpose.
13. 13
    Set your table up in a shady spot and enjoy it.
    
    

Tools list

 

Aviation Snips (yellow handle – straight)

Aviation snips are used in applications which include HVAC installation and repair; exterior remodeling industry (roofing, siding, gutter, and down spout installation and repair; metal building construction; RV/motor home/trailer manufacturing; auto body repair; and general sheet metal cutting

 

Calculator (Construction Master Pro)

 

Carpenter’s Pencil

The shape of a carpenter's pencil prevents it from rolling, even when placed on a steep sloping roof. The most popular shape seems to be a flat, octagonal style. And the lead must be strong enough to make a heavy mark and to withstand the stresses of carpentry, which frequently requires marking on very coarse surfaces. The leads are usually wide and flat.

Chalk Line (Blue and Red)-
A chalk line or chalk box is a tool for marking long, straight lines on relatively flat surfaces, much farther than is practical by hand or with a strightedge.
It is an important tool in constraction and carpentry, the working of timber in a rough and unplaned state, as it does not require the timber to have a straight or squared edge formed onto it beforehand.

Ear Protection (reusable ear plugs)-Earmuffs are objects designed to cover a person's ears for protection. They consist of a thermoplastic or metal head-band, that fits over the top of the head, and a pad at each end, to cover the external ears.

Hammer-A hammer is a tool meant to deliver an impact to an object. The most common uses are for driving nails, fitting parts, forging metal and breaking up objects.

Hardhat – OSHA approved-A hard hat is a type of helmet predominantly used in workplace environments, such as construction sites, to protect the head from injury by falling objects, impact with other objects, debris, bad weather and electric shock.

(Ratchet-type head band recommended)

 

Safety Glasses-Safety glasses are usually made with shatter-resistant plastic lenses to protect the eye from flying debris.

Sliding T-bevel-
A sliding T bevel is an adjustable gauge for setting and transferring angles. The handle is usually made of wood or plastic and is connected to a metal blade with a thumbscrew or wing nut. The blade pivots and can be locked at any angle by loosening or tightening the thumbscrew.

In use

The bevel can be used to duplicate an existing angle, or set to a desired angle by using it with any number of other measuring tools

Carpentry

Tool List

Maths 07/03/11

Surface Area and Perimeter of a Triangle

Surface Area and Perimeter of a Trapezoid

Surface Area and Perimeter of a Rectangle

Area and Perimeter of a Parallelogram

Area and Perimeter of a Circle

Surface Area and Volume of a Sphere

Surface Area and Volume of a Cone

Surface Area and Volume of a Cylinder

Surface Area and Volume of a Rectangular Prism

Surface Area and Volume of a Square Based Pyramid

Surface Area and Volume of a Isosceles Triangular Prism

Area of a Circle Sector

Surface Area of An Elipse

Surface Area of an Ellipse

Length of an Arc Formula

	Trapezoid Perimeter = area + b1 + b2 + c P = a + b1 + b2 + c
	Circle The distance around the circle is a circumference. The distance across the circle is the diameter (d). The radius (r) is the distance from the center to a point on the circle.  d = 2r c = pd = 2 pr A = pr2 (p=3.14)
	Rectangular Solid Volume = Length X Width X Height V = lwh Surface = 2lw + 2lh + 2wh
	Prisms Volume = Base X Height v=bh Surface = 2b + Ph (b is the area of the base P is the perimeter of the base)
	Cylinder Volume = pr2 x height V = pr2 h Surface = 2p radius x height S = 2prh + 2pr2
	Pyramid V = 1/3 bh b is the area of the base Surface Area: Add the area of the base to the sum of the areas of all of the triangular faces. The areas of the triangular faces will have different formulas for different shaped bases.
	ConesVolume = 1/3 pr2 x heightV= 1/3 pr2h Surface = pr2 + prsS = pr2 + prs =pr2 + pr
	SphereVolume = 4/3 pr3V = 4/3 pr3 Surface = 4pr2S = 4pr2

Shapes	Formula
	Rectangle: Area = Length X Width A = lw Perimeter = 2 X Lengths + 2 X Widths P = 2l + 2w
	Parallelogram Area = Base X Height a = bh
	TriangleArea = 1/2 of the base X the height a = 1/2 bh Perimeter = a + b + c (add the length of the three sides