How to Build a BBQ Table

Steps

1. 1
   Obtain a durable lumber suitable for the project. The project in the photos uses pressure treated southern yellow pine, recycled from an old deck. Choosing premium lumber, or even a synthetic material made from recycled plastics will afford a higher quality finished project.
   
   
   • 14 - 2x6 72 inches (183 cm) long.
   • 5 - 2X4 30 inches (76,2 cm) long.
   • 3 lbs. 12d (3 1/2 inch) hot dipped galvanized nails. (Substitute 3 1/2 inch exterior (deck) screws for greater strength)
2. 2
   Cut:
   
   
   • Cut 12 2X6 boards 72 inches (183 cm) long. 6 til bordplate. 2 til seat rails. 4 til sitteplate.
   • Cut 3 2X4 boards, 30 inches (76,2 cm) from long point to long point, with 45 degree angles on each end.
   • Cut 4 2X6 boards 35 inches (88,9 cm) long from long point to short point, with a 25 degree angle on each end. Til bein.
   • Note that you will also have to cut the diagonal bracing underneath the table top, but it is best to scribe this board to fit after the rest of the top is fastened together.
   the following boards, using a rafter or speed square to scribe the correct angles
3. 3
   

   Lumber arranged on the sawhorses, best side down.
   Lay out the top boards on sawhorses, setting them so the best side (least knots, cracks, etc) is down, since this will be the bottom of the table top.
4. 4
   

   Table top nailers (rails), positioned and tacked in place.
   Nail, spaced 4 inches (10 cm) from either end and the third centered between the ends the 2X4 boards with the 45 degree angle cuts to the bottom of the table top. Toenail these to hold them in position until the table is flipped over, when you can finish nailing the top.
5. 5
   

   Legs, nailed into position.
   Position the 35 inch (88,9 cm) 2X6s so they are centered over the short point of the table top end rails as shown in the photo, and nail them securely to the rails.
6. 6
   

   Measuring up, or down from the top. This height can vary, depending on how tall the table users will be.
   Measure up (down from the top when the table is flipped) 17 inches (43,2 cm). Drive a nail into the leg at this mark, half way to the head. This will support the seat rails, which you will install next.
7. 7
   Center the seat rails (also 2X6 72 inches - 183 cm - long), centered between the inverted table legs, resting on the nails you have driven in at 17 inches. Nail these through into the legs.
8. 8
   

   The diagonal 2X4 brace nailed into position.
   Mark the centers of both the table top middle rail and the seat rails. Scribe a 2X4 to fit diagonally between these marks, as shown in the photo. Cut these, and nail them securely into place.
9. 9
   

   Table set right side up before installing seat boards.
   Invert your table so it is now standing on its legs. Lay your seat boards (again, 2X6s, 72 inches - 183 cm - long, on the seat rails that should be sticking out from beneath the table on each side. You will want to try them out for size, shifting them in or out along the rail until they are comfortable for you. When you have these rails in a desirable position, mark the location of the outer seat board, remove them, and saw a 45 degree angle on the rail so none of it will protrude from beneath the seats.
10. 10
    

    Seat support (rail) with angle cut.
    Reposition the seat boards and nail them off. Drive nails through the table top boards into their rails to finish securing them.
11. 11
    

    Cutting the table top corners on a 45 degree angle will prevent painful bumps.
    Cut the corners of the table top at a 45 degree angle about 2 inches (5 cm) from the corners so they are rounded, to make it less likely anyone will bump into them.
12. 12
    Sand and finish the table as you want. You can use a silicone waterproofing sealer, an exterior polyurethane (many so-called polyurethane products actually degrade in ultraviolet light), or a semitransparent exterior wood stain for this purpose.
13. 13
    Set your table up in a shady spot and enjoy it.